Bloated Tummies and Memories

Last September 22, we had an OCLA in Pampanga, dubbed as the food capital of the Philippines, entitled Memory Making in Food Consumption. This field trip is not only to fill our stomachs but has the main purpose of understanding the culture of the Kapampangans as reflected by the way they make their food. Though food is just mere symbols and just one aspect of their real culture, storytelling is also included in our itinerary to somehow provide a sliver of what Kapampangans are. So, as we fill our stomachs with luscious food, we also fill our mind with memories of Pampanga’s food stories and our actual food eating, which I admit is the best part.

The trip includes 9 stops that gave us insights of how Kapampangan foods are prepared, evolved, and stories of their history.

Before we make our stop in a particular delicacy, Mr. Poch give us backgrounds about the delicacy and I notice that from the suman makers of Bacolor, to Turones de Casuy and Sans Rival, to Patko and Burquillios, to the sampaguita cookies from La Moderna Bakery, even our lunch at Everybody’s café and the San Nicholas cookies of Atching Lillian Boromeo, are recipes passed on from one generation to the next. With only a few modifications to keep up with the modern world like the suman topped with chicken strips, egg and ham. Also, the San Nicholas cookies that two men were making at the La Moderna Bakery do not have the image of San Nicholas on their molder.

I also notice the influence of the church over some of the Kapampangan food we ate and the interesting stories of their history. Like the Sans Rival and the Turones de Casuy, to give thanks to the three ladies that helped in maintaining the church the recipes were passed on to them by the friars. Thanks to them and their grand children, I had the chance to relish the heavenly-no-rival taste of the Sans Rival and the Turones. One amazing thing about the Sans Rival is that the butter does not melt even on room temperature, an evidence of how Kapampangans master their craft well.

Another where christianity is truly apparent is the San Nicholas cookies of Atching Lillian (my favorite stop since I got the chance of making my own cookie and its perfect!). This stop got my attention to actually listen to the story behind this delicacy. As early as 1600 Spaniards already taught this recipe to Filipinos around the country but only the Kapampangans have preserved this delicacy until today and thus now became one of their trade marks. Atching Lillian even owns molders dated back to as early as 1900 as evidenced by the colors. And overtime, some families made their own design of molders sometimes with San Nicholas or none at all. Though the recipe is simple, Kapampangans before only bake this kind of cookie once a year. But since this cookie became well known, it is now baked all year round as it is made pasalubong of tourists.

I also observed how creative Kapampangan’s make their food. Like the additional toppings on their suman, chicharon partnered with achara, Turones wrapped with edible paper, and San Nicholas cookies with lemon zest. They are not contented on conventional ways of cooking but they add more ‘twist’ to that distinguishes their cuisine to other places.

This trip did not only fill my stomach but it also proves that culture truly differs from one place to another, as I got the chance to compare Kapampanan food to Ilocano food. It differs because of its history and the way people had interacted with each other overtime. But I must admit that Kapampanangan food is much more fabulous than Ilocano food.